Standard
Route Frankenstein, NEI 3+
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Rack- standard ice rack
Standard Route is the longest climb at Frankenstein and one of the classic flows of the area. Because of this, it is also one of the most popular. It is one of the first climbs to come into shape in Crawford Notch and one of the last to deteriorate. Fortunately, it has a number of variations which allow up to 3 parties to ascend simultaneously without interfering with each other. This requires some coordination between the parties so one party does not start up one line then traverse onto another.
One of the great features of the route is a cave approximately 75 feet up and slightly right of the main flow. In the cave there are two fixed rock anchors and room enough for 4 to 6 people depending on conditions. Two of the lines belay at this cave with an exit out either side. The other variation climbs left toward what appears to be another cave that is both disappointing and difficult to belay in. This variation belays on an ice ledge that forms below and slightly right of the disappointing cave
The first two pitches can be combined in all three variations, but it will require a 60- meter rope. Of the three routes, the third one is the most exposed to ice fall.
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Approach-
From the trestle, continue walking along the tracks for 10 to 15 minutes
till you find yourself at the base of a large ice flow that is clearly
visible and starts 150 feet uphill from the tracks. All three variations
start at the same clump of trees up and right from the toe of the flow.
Variation 1
Pitch 1- From the clump of trees, hike left onto a ramp
and climb this to a large ledge. Follow breaks off the left end of the
ledge, then trend back right and ascend directly under the left side
of the cave to the fixed belay. Staying under the cave protects you
somewhat from ice coming from parties higher on the route. 100 ft
Pitch 2- Exit out the left side of the cave and climb immediatly
up so that you are clearly right of the center of the flow. At about
2/3 height there is sometimes a small overhang of rock with a fixed
pin underneath. When the ice gets thicker the overhang is covered over
and the pin disappears. The pitch ends at a large ledge that is formed
by the roof of the cave. Use caution here not to climb too much further
because it is hard for your belayer to hear from in the cave. 65 ft
Pitch 3- Climb up and left following weaknesses to the
trees on the left edge of the flow below the final steep columns. 145
ft.
Pitch 4- From the belay traverse easily left to a trail
or ascend the columns to the trail. With a 60-meter rope the columns
can be combined with pitch 3.
Variation
2
Pitch 1- From the clump of trees move straight up a snow
slope to a gully of ice. Move up this gully and climb bulges toward
the right side of the cave. 100 ft.
Pitch 2- From the cave move out right (this may require climbing behind a column and exiting out a "window") and climb up over bulges. Continue up to a large ledge below a steep wall of ice. Belay here or traverse right to a belay at a tree with numerous rappel slings. 70 ft.
Pitch 3- Traverse left along the ledge then move up and left following weaknesses to the trees on the left edge of the flow below the final steep columns. 150 ft.
Pitch 4- From the belay traverse easily left to a trail or ascend the columns to the trail. With a 60-meter rope the columns can be combined with pitch 3.
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Variation
3, first belay
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Variation
3
Pitch 1- From the clump of trees hike left onto a ramp
and climb this to a large ledge. Continue climbing up and left from
this ledge until you are on the left edge of the flow. Continue up till
you find the best stance and belay. The further left you can get the
more protected you will be from ice falling from the leader or other
parties on the next pitch. 110 ft.
Pitch 2- Climb up the center of the flow, up steeper ice to a ledge. From the ledge climb up a bulge to another ledge and belay. 70 ft.
Pitch 3- Climb up and left following weaknesses to the trees on the left edge of the flow below the final steep columns. 145 ft.
Pitch 4- From the belay traverse easily left to a trail or ascend the columns to the trail. With a 60-meter rope the columns can be combined with pitch 3.
Descent- From the top follow the trail right 5 minutes or so to a gully. The gully you want to descend is the one you will be able to see the whole length of, be careful here as there are other gullies that cliff out. Follow the "skiers left" side of the gully where there is a trail till you reach the RR tracks. On all three routes you can traverse right from the second pitch and rappel 150' from the tree with slings on it mentioned in variation 2, down to the start without interfering substantially with parties starting the route. You can also rappel from either anchor in the cave back to the snow with a single 50-meter rope.
© Chauvin Guides International, P.O. Box 2151, North Conway, NH 03860 Voice: 603-356-8919