Chauvin Guides International, Standard (Whitehorse) Guide

Chauvin Guides International

Standard Route Whitehorse Ledge

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Rack- A standard rack with a full set of wired nuts and cams up to a #3 Friend. Also bring two or three of the smallest Tri-cams and several quickdraws along with a bunch of shoulder length slings.

Standard Route (click on photo for details)

Standard Route on Whitehorse Ledge probably sees more ascents every season than any other climb in the White Mountains. It is a brilliant, long slab climb on excellent granite. The bottom part of the route below Lunch Ledge is moderate friction climbing and it's possible to get up to Lunch Ledge from just about anywhere. All you need to do is find the occasional piece of protection (sometimes a problem) and a place to belay. So, while this route may often be busy there are a lot of different ways to get up to Lunch Ledge. From Lunch Ledge, the climbing becomes much steeper to get over several overlaps and there are fewer variations. Consequently, there are sometimes traffic jams getting past this point in the climb. Above the overlaps, the climb opens up into slab climbing again which allows for numerous lines to the top.

The Launch Pad

This is a fabulous climb in a spectacular setting. Going all the way to the top usually involves about 10 pitches of roped climbing, but it doesn't take forever because the lower and upper pitches go pretty quickly. The only pitch which should consume any time is the pitch above Lunch Ledge which goes through the overlaps. While the climbing on this route isn't at a very high-level, climbers leading these friction pitches should be very comfortable leading at this grade. This is due to the run out nature of the Whitehorse slabs. Pieces of gear are often few and far between. Anyone going to Whitehorse should also consider bringing a few of the smaller Tri-cams which work brilliantly in the solution pockets found here. Nothing else really works in these holes.

There are a couple of small openings at the base of the cliff directly underneath a large right, slanting arch which begins about 300 feet up. After following the trail in from the hotel parking lot (from its northern end) follow the trail left along the base of the cliff to a small height of land to find these. Most people begin this climb from a flat ledge (the Launch Pad) located about 150 feet up from here. You can rope up in the woods or do as many people do, scramble up to the Launch Pad and rope up there.

Pitch 1- 110 ft, 5.3 From the right hand edge of the Launch Pad, climb up and then angle right to some right facing flakes were you can get some gear. Then climb straight up to a large hole in the rock with two bolts above it for a belay (the Toilet Bowl). (Variation 1) It's also possible to climb straight up to the base of the big right slanting arch from the Launch Pad and belay at two bolts on a good ledge (5.3 R) . You'll want to start this variation closer to the left hand edge of the Launch Pad and to reach the base of the arch in one pitch you'll need 60 m ropes. If your ropes aren't long enough, it's possible to belay at a good solution pocket (# 2.5 & 3 Friends) about 60 or 70 feet up. (Variation 2) If another party is already in the Toilet Bowl and you still want to head in that direction there are a couple of other places to belay. Stay below the Toilet Bowl and move to the right of it to a small right facing flake where you can get good gear for an alternate anchor. It's also possible to reach this anchor in two pitches from the bottom of the cliff by starting downhill and to the north of the normal starting point for Standard. This is the start for Slabs Direct. Climb out of the woods on easy slabs to a two bolt belay. Another easy pitch, up and left, brings you to the gear anchor. (Note: You may not be able to reach the Quartz Pocket in one pitch from here.) (Variation 3) It's also possible to climb up passing the toilet bowl on your right to a small left facing flake where you can also set up a good gear anchor (long pitch).

The Quartz Pocket

Pitch 2- 150 ft, 5.3 Climb up to the left aiming for a small left facing flake where you can place gear (alternate anchor). Then up to another left arching flake (good gear or natural thread at the base of this) and straight up to a bolt anchor on a good ledge covered with large quartz crystals (the Quartz Pocket). (Variation 1) It's possible to get all the way to Lunch Ledge in several pitches via a separate line by trending to the right from the Toilet Bowl area. Climb easy slabs (no pro) up to a double bolt anchor with chains. From here follow the line of Slabs Direct directly up to Lunch Ledge. (Variation 2) Climb up from the Toilet Bowl area, angling to the left to reach the ledge at the base of the Standard arch and a two bolt anchor. There's potential for a big swing on this variation, so be careful. From this ledge either follow the corner for two pitches (original line) to the Pinch belay (fixed thread) or climb up right to the Quartz Pocket.

The Pinch Belay

Pitch 3- 100 ft, 5.3 Climb over a short steep section from the anchor and follow the line of pockets (you'll wish you had tri-cams here if you didn't bring any) up and right to a fixed thread (Pinch Belay) underneath a steep section of the main arch. The route up the Standard arch joins here from the left.

Pitch 4- 130 ft, 5.4 Follow the main arch to the right, out to a break in the steeper rock above. Begin the steeper section with a couple layback moves in a right facing inside corner. Don't follow the corner, but instead move left to big holds which lead up to a corner which will take you past a small tree to Lunch Ledge.

Pitch 5- 120 ft, 5.7 or 5.5 The Crux. This is how the route is usually done now. After climbing up 20 feet from Lunch Ledge, angle a little left up into a left facing corner. Move up the corner to clip a fixed pin and then step back down to where it is possible to step out right and then up to a bolt. Keep traversing to the right until you can get on to a ramp that leads to a clean, short corner with a fixed pin. Climb this corner and then follow another ramp up to the left to where it is possible to climb through the last overlap and belay at a big tree. (Variation 1) 5.5, The original line. From the right hand edge of Lunch Ledge move up 20 feet and then straight across right to a bolt. Step down to a small ledge and traverse further right to another bolt. Continue past this bolt to reach a left leaning ramp which is followed for about 40 feet to a clean right facing corner with a pin in it. From here the route is the same as before. Because of the traversing nature of this line there are potential problems with rope drag and pendulums for the second. Some people belay on the first ramp after the two bolts where it's possible to get good gear (old fixed pins?). This might also be a good pitch to lead on double ropes. (Variation 2) Instead of exiting up right to a belay at the big tree continue easily along the arch out to the left about 40 feet to an easy dike (Sliding Board) which is followed up to a belay on a small, flat ledge with a couple of small trees on it.

The Crux (click photo for details)

From above the overlaps the route to the top is once again all mostly slab climbing and there are numerous ways to go. The biggest variation from what we will be describing goes right along the big ledge just above the overlaps to a prominent dike. Follow this easy dike up to another big ledge. Traverse right along this ledge until it's possible to move up again on very easy rock to another big ledge with trees. One more pitch above this ledge takes you to the top.

Pitch 6- 130 ft, 5.3 From the big tree above the overlaps climb straight up to another big tree. Sling this then traverse straight out to the left to reach the small ledge with small trees in the dike described in the variation on pitch 5. Don't belay here or place gear (you'd be setting your second up for a big swing) but instead continue up the easy dike to a small flat spot on the right with two fixed pins. (Variation) These pins can also be reached by climbing straight up past the big tree to a break on the right hand side of a steep section of rock. Climb through this break and traverse up and left to the pins.

The Top Slabs

Pitch 7- 80 ft, 5.2 Climb up and left past the left side of a steep overlap to a small ledge where it's possible to get a good gear anchor.

Pitch 8- 110 ft, 5.0 Continue easily straight up the dike to a belay at the single bolt.

Pitch 9-160 ft, 5.0 Keep going up the dike until it's easy to veer off to the right and go straight up to the trees at the top.

Descent Options- From the top of the cliff the easiest descent is to follow the climber's trail right (north). Find it by traversing north, right along the top of the slabs and then angle uphill a little bit. Follow it downhill through the woods to a trail intersection marked by a sign. Go right here (going straight will take you to the top of Cathedral Ledge). Follow this down steeply until the trail flattens out and you reach a clearing with an old shack on the right. You'll be at a 4-way intersection, go right and follow this trail back to the base of Whitehorse and the hotel parking lot.

From the tree at the top of the overlaps you can rappel back down to Lunch Ledge and from there follow the line of rappel anchors straight down to the bottom via the Slabs Direct route. From the first rappel anchor below Lunch Ledge it's also possible to angle to the south to a separate line of anchors which will take you past the Toilet Bowl and back down to the Launch Pad. You need 2 ropes for these rappels.

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