Chauvin Guides International, Upper Refuse Guide

Chauvin Guides International

Upper Refuse Cathedral Ledge

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Notice- As of March 28, 2004 all fixed gear has been removed from route.

Rack-a standard rack will do just fine for this climb. Bring a full set of wired nuts, cams up to about the size of a # 3 Friend, and plenty of shoulder length slings as well as a few quickdraws.

Normal Belay, End of 1st Pitch

Upper Refuse is by far the easiest and most popular route on this section of Cathedral Ledge. It's popularity is fully justified by it's interesting and varied climbing and it's spectacular position. Although this route is very popular, there are several different ways in which it can be climbed and a number of different places in which you can belay if the standard belay spots are ready taken. Depending upon which way you climb it, the grade is either 5.5 or 5.6. This climb was first done back in the 1930s.

Upper Refuse begins near the right hand edge of the big tree covered ledge that splits the left (south) side of the cliff. There are a number of ways to access this ledge. Once you are on it, keep moving to the right (north) until you are forced to scramble up a small rock step or slab to a higher ledge. Upper Refuse follows the large right leaning ramp just above. This climb is typically done in four pitches, finishing at the tourist outlook at the top of the cliff. We will first describe the route via the standard ascent line and then describe some of the more common variations which could be useful if there are other parties on the route.

Alternate, Hanging Belay, End 1st pitch

Pitch 1- 90 ft, 5.3 Climb the straightforward face, trending towards the lower angled right hand side until you get to a small flat ledge at the base of a V-groove. This stance has two fixed pins which can be easily backed up.

Pitch 2- 60 ft, 5.5 From the belay ledge climb up the awkward V-groove past an old fixed piton and continue up the deep corner to its end. Step right onto a good belay ledge which has several different positions you can belay from depending upon traffic. If you belay from the tree, don't forget to protect your partners with a directional as they near the top of the corner.

Pitch 3- 50 ft, 5.5 Climb the steep face behind the tree past a difficult move to reach the two smaller trees above. Continue straight up a couple of small cracks to a good stance where you can trend right and up towards the right side of this exposed face. Climb up a short ways to a crack which angles back to the left. Follow this to a big flat ledge and a belay(2 fixed pins are here).

Nearing 2nd Belay- Note the Directional

Pitch 4- 90 ft, 5.4 Scramble up from the ledge, passing a couple of trees on your left. Follow the step-like section of rock right behind the trees to a couple of benches. The higher bench or ledge has a short steep section above it. There are a number of ways to climb this, don't get suckered into a hard one. Finish up a low angle slab to the tourist outlook.

There are many variations on this climb some of which could come in handy if you find yourself on the climb with a number of other people, we'll mention a few of the more useful ones.

Pitch 1 variations-(1) Stay in the corner on the left of the ramp instead of trending right. Follow this until you are just above the belay ledge described in the normal route at which point a hanging belay can be set up on a steep slab just below a right facing corner with a good crack in it. This belay may be a little awkward to set up but can be made more comfortable by combining gear in the crack with gear way out to the left, up high behind a good flake. With a 60 m rope you can bypass this stance and reach the tree covered ledge described at the end of pitch 2 on the normal route. (2) If the normal start up the big ramp is busy, an alternative start can be found behind the big flake a little to the right. Follow this, trending back to the left until you are at a pedestal on the edge of the ramp then follow the normal route. (3) Two or three good belay stances can be found below the good ledge which is the normal end to pitch 1. These will at least get you started and you can continue up when the higher belays are vacated. (4) If another party has arrived at the start at the same time as you, consider combining the first two pitches (normal route or left corner variation) if you have a long enough rope. This will free up the lower belay ledge is for another party.

Nearing 3rd Belay-Great Face Climbing!

Pitch 2 variations-(1) Instead of following the big corner all the way to it's end, halfway up, go out a layback crack and then face climb straight up to the tree on the second belay ledge. This leaves the upper part of the big corner free for people coming up the left variation from or past the hanging belay stance and no ropes need to be crossed. (2) if you're at the hanging belay, begin with a thin layback move past your anchor gear and reach the top of a small face. Step down into the big corner and follow it to the second belay ledge.

Topping Out

Pitch 3 variations-(1) It's possible to go straight up from the very left hand edge of the second belay ledge following the big right facing corner to avoid people who are using the trees to the right. If you stay in the corner all the way to the top, it's more difficult than the normal finish on the face towards the right hand edge. You might want some bigger gear for the wide crack and there's a chockstone near the normal traverse out right that you can sling. (2) If the normal belay ledge is busy you can continue up past it a short ways and belay from the trees above.

Pitch 4 variations-(1) You can simply scramble up past the trees on your left and continue scrambling to the left to a walk off, avoiding the last fifth class slabs to the tourist outlook.

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