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Recom-Beast Cathedral Ledge

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Pitch 4

Rack- Bring a standard rack plus a couple larger pieces for the Beast Flake.

This is a variation to the original Recompense line. It climbs most of Recompense, but instead of climbing the Recompense chimney to get to the inside corner at the top, it goes out left and up the Beast Flake. This is a much more spectacular pitch than the chimney and is a very popular way to do the climb. This linkup is one of the very best climbs in the area. It is well protected and has a lot of excellent climbing on it. This, coupled with it's length (it climbs the tallest section of the cliff) and great situations and exposure make it a "must do" climb for anyone climbing at or above this level. The inside corner on the last pitch is world class.

Finding the start of this climb and the route finding on the first pitch are a little bit tricky. To approach the climb, use the climber's trail that begins just across from the bulletin board. It is marked with a sign for Recompense and yellow blazes. Follow the trail uphill (watch out for poison ivy) until you reach the base of the cliff. The trail makes a hard right turn (going left on the trail at the base of the cliff will take you to Funhouse) and goes up some steep sections (steps) staying close to the bottom of the cliff. You're looking for a place where you can scramble up and left onto the base of the Prow Buttress (see photo). It's possible to start from either one of two ledges. Many people combine the first two pitches. Consider starting from the higher ledge it this is your plan in order to shorten the pitch. A 55 or 60 m rope is required to combine these pitches if you start from the lower ledge.

Pitch 1- 5.5, 80 ft (from lower ledge) Climb up cracks and a corner and then step left and follow another corner up to a couple of small ledges. Good gear can be found here for an anchor.

Pitch 2- 5.7, 100 ft Continue up the corner to a point where it is possible to easily climb out of it to the left towards a nice finger crack. Follow this crack (fixed pin) diagonally to the left to a stance on a ledge below a steep section. Climb this steep section (a little tricky for 5.7) to reach another ledge. Traverse left and up, passing another steep section to easier holds which lead to an excellent belay ledge with two bolts.

Pitch 3- 5.9, 120 ft A tremendous pitch! Climb up from the left side of the ledge to reach some cracks that are a little to the right of the Beast Flake (good pro). Then, traverse down slightly and to the left to where it is possible to reach the flake (wild and exposed). Follow the flake, passing fixed slings near its top, to a small stance just around to the right where it's possible to get good gear for an anchor.

Beginning the Crux, Pitch 4

Pitch 4- 5.9, 110 ft Another outstanding pitch! Down climb a little bit to the right (tricky) to get into a big corner. The original Recompense route joins here. Layback and jam this corner to a section of easier climbing that goes past an unusual looking stump (alternate belay). Continue up the perfect inside corner (great gear the whole way) to the top. Halfway up the corner is a small ledge where you can build a good anchor and break this pitch into two.

From the top of the climb it's an easy walk off to the left to the top of the cliff. It's also possible to finish up via a couple of pretty good 5.9 cracks that begin just above the Recompense finish and to the left. If you want even more climbing, it's possible to go down from the right end of the ledge Recompense finishes on to a pine tree. From here you have a couple options. You can finish up the last pitch of The Prow (5.10a, nice finger crack). Climbing further to the right allows you to finish up The Comeau Finish (5.6). Bring a 3 1/2 Friend for this finish. Both of these finishes are wildly exposed!

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