Pegasus
Frankenstein, NEI 3 - 4
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Rack- standard, No rock gear needed for the rock finish, it's fixed.
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Located in the Amphitheater, Pegasus is one of the classic climbs of Frankenstein. The bottom of the route forms early, but the upper column tends to form later. There are two separate lines that can be climbed on the main flow. A third line skips the final column by heading further right to climb a shorter column capped by a fantastic and well protected dry tooling section.
Approach- Follow the railroad tracks from the parking lot to just before the trestle and take a left onto a climber's trail. Pegasus is the middle route, furthest back in the amphitheater.
The main flow starts with a wide steep wall to a ledge. Then another narrower steep wall leads to a smaller ledge followed by the final column to the top. The biggest problem is finishing the first pitch at a place that does not put the belayer in ice fall hazard from a leader climbing above. In good conditions the final column can be climbed in two places, up the right side or up the center. This, along with the wide first pitch, allows two parties to climb the flow simultaneously. Both variations 1 and 2 can be climbed in one pitch with a 60-meter rope.
Variation
1
Pitch 1- Climb the left side of the first step to a ledge and
belay. Make sure you are not directly below the upper column when you
belay. 60 ft.
Pitch 2- Climb up the second step to below the final column.
Ascend up the center of the column to a tree belay at the top. 120 ft.
Variation
2
Pitch 1- Climb the right side of the first step to a ledge and
belay. Make sure you are not directly below the upper column when you
belay. 60 ft.
Pitch 2- Climb up the second step to below the final column.
Climb up a groove on the right side of the final column to a tree belay
at the top. 120 ft.
Variation
3 (Pegasus with the Rock Finish)
Pitch 1- Climb either the right side of the first step or climb
the steep column to the right of the step (NEI 4) and belay at the large
ledge.
Pitch 2- From the belay, traverse right and climb up to a column
40 feet right of the Pegasus main column. Climb up this column (fixed
pin on the left wall) to an alcove. Climb the rock on the left wall
of the alcove (3 or 4 fixed pins) for twenty feet to the woods.
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