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Rack- A standard rack with the possible addition of a 3.5 Friend will do. Consider two ropes in case of retreat.
Lakeview is the best of the easier routes on Cannon Cliff. It combines excellent climbing with good rock (especially for Cannon) and great views. This climb has an "alpine" feel to it just like the other routes on Cannon and despite its relatively easy grade should not be taken lightly. For the most part the climb is well protected, though there is a pretty good run out on the third pitch. The start of the last pitch is the crux and has been the scene of a few epics. Be ready for it. There is a considerable amount of traversing on this climb, so leaders should be ready to protect their seconds and seconds should be comfortable with traversing. In the event of bad weather, a traverse to the right anywhere below Lunch Ledge will get you into the steep brush where it will be possible (but not pleasant) to thrash up and right to get off. Just as for all the other routes on Cannon, be on the lookout for loose rock and keep an eye on the weather. Weather moving in from the west won't be seen until its overhead on this east facing cliff.
Approach- The approach begins from the Profile Lake parking lot on the southbound lane of Interstate 93 in Franconia Notch. This is just south of Exit 2. To approach the climb, walk south down the bike path and take a right just after the first bridge at a sign for the Pemi Trail. Follow this a short ways until you come to the first, well worn, unmarked trail leading up to left. Follow this trail up through the woods and onto the talus where the trail is marked by a number of cairns. At the base of the cliff turn right. The start of the climb is at a broken, indistinct corner system underneath the right hand edge of some big arching overlaps. The start is about 100 feet south of the north end of the cliff. Pitch 1- 140 feet, 5.3 Climb this shallow, left-facing corner system for about 75 feet. Step right and up to a belay just underneath the right hand edge of the big overlap. Pitch 2- 140 feet, 5.4 Step right from the belay and follow a thin crack up onto the slab underneath the first overlap. Climb the overlap then traverse left until it is possible to step back down. Follow a widening crack and belay at its end. There is usually some fixed gear here.
Pitch 3- 160 feet, 5.5 R Climb up and left and step over a small overlap at a fixed pin. Friction climb up over a bulge and climb (or walk) easily up along the ramp to the left. Belay below the right hand edge of a large arching overlap. The friction climbing over the bulge is run out. Pitch 4- 150 feet, 5.2 Keep traversing easily to the left and up along ledges and through some brush to the base of a clean right facing corner on a small slab. Pitches 5 & 6- 250 feet, 5.3 There are a couple of options here. Climb the corner from the belay up the slab and then diagonal up left. Climb up over blocks and through bushes, taking the line of least resistance up to the right hand edge of Lunch Ledge. Or, after climbing the initial corner from the belay, walk well to the left underneath steeper rock to a point where it is easy to climb up (fixed pin) to the left side of Lunch Ledge. This is easy and much better climbing then the first option though technically you will be a little off the guidebook description to the left. Pitch 7- 90 feet, 5.5 A really nice pitch with excellent climbing and protection. Climb up the wide dike from lunch ledge about 15 feet and then diagonal left onto a steep face with good cracks. Climb the cracks and steep face to the base of a very low angle slab and belay.
Pitch 8- 90 feet, 5.6 Another beautiful pitch of climbing. Climb (walk) up the easy slab to a large flake on the right. Climb the flake (crux) and then the V-shaped corner above (great climbing) to the top of the Old Man. Though the crux flake (Archival Flake) looks impossible to protect, it's not. There's a way to get protection that will keep you from hitting the slab if you come off. Be creative (or email us before you go). If you don't find this pro, don't fall! Descent- Follow the water trough built to protect the Old Man which leads to a steep trail down. At Profile Lake, go right and follow the trail back to parking lot. © Chauvin Guides International, P.O. Box 2151, North Conway, NH 03860 Voice: 603-356-891
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Lakeview
Cannon Cliff
