Chauvin Guides International

CGI LogoHumphrey's Ledge Left Side

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Wanderlust- Pitch 1

Rack- Although these routes have been recently retro bolted, they are not sport routes and a standard rack should be carried on all of them. It's possible to descend from all the routes with a single rope by making two rappels. Bring another rope if you want to get down with only one rap.

Several of these climbs have been in existence for 20 or more years, but never received much traffic due to the nasty runouts they had before the newly added bolts. So, these routes haven't reached the "classic" status yet that the other routes we describe have, but because they provide very good climbing and are quite close to Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges, we felt they deserve to be written up. They are definitely worth a visit.

The local climbers who recently added bolts to the existing lines here did so with the permission of the first ascensionists and tried to place them in such a way that climbers on both sides of the bolting issue could live with them. These routes have always provided excellent climbing, but practically no one ever gave them a try before they were cleaned and bolted. It's hoped that these routes can now be enjoyed by many more climbers.
Wanderlust- Pitch 2

These routes on the left side of Humphrey's Ledge provide some excellent, moderate climbing on sound rock. This cliff has a reputation for loose rock, but these routes on the left side are pretty solid. All routes have double bolt rappel anchors making for very convenient descents. These routes all face south, so take this into consideration when climbing here.

This area is about 1.5 miles north of Cathedral Ledge on Westside Road. Park on the road opposite the entrance to the Lady Blanche House. There is a trail leading from the road up into the woods. Follow this through some boulders (a popular bouldering area) and up to the base of the cliff. Follow the trail left until nearly at the end of the cliff.

Wanderlust- 5.8+
This climb begins at a fairly smooth steep slab with three bolts in it.

Pitch 1- 5.8+ Climb the slab past four bolts and up over a steep bulge. Continue on lower angled rock past one more bolt to a double bolt anchor.
Pitch 2- 5.7 Angle up to the left, climbing past three bolts to another double bolt anchor. Excellent climbing.

Run Don't Walk- Pitch 1

Run Don't Walk- 5.9
Begin about 20 feet to left of Wanderlust at a small buttress underneath an overhanging face.

Pitch 1- 5.9 Climb easily up the buttress to the steep rock. Climb past two bolts and pull the overlap (crux). Continue up on lower angled rock, passing two more bolts to a two bolt belay.
Pitch 2- 5.8 Though not the crux pitch, this one will keep you thinking. Excellent climbing. Climb up, passing three bolts to another double bolt anchor.

Think Fast Mr. Moto- 5.9
Starts approximately 20 feet left of Run Don't Walk

Pitch 1- 5.9 Climb steep rock past a bolt, a piton, and another bolt. Angle left to pull over the overlap. Climb lower angled rock past one more bolt to a double bolt anchor 15 feet to the left of the Run Don't Walk anchor.
Pitch 2- 5.8 Step left from the anchor and climb up past two bolts. Continue up, placing gear to a double bolt anchor.
Cakewalk- Pitch 1

A Piece of Cake 5.7-5.8
This route can be done a couple of different ways. The start is just to the right of the left end of the slab at a shallow groove. Look for two bolts.

Pitch 1- 5.7 or 5.8 Climb the groove and face just to the right of the big right right-facing inside corner past two bolts (5.7). This bit is still a little dirty. Continue climbing up to a third bolt. Climbing straight up to this bolt and then straight up to the fourth bolt is 5.8. Clipping these two bolts but staying in the corners to the left is 5.6. Belay underneath an overhang at a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2- 5.6R Climb the overhang and clean face above passing one more bolt. The climb ends at the same double bolt anchor as Think Fast Mr. Moto. This climb can also be done in one long pitch.

Cakewalk 5.6
This is a good route at the very left end of the face all these routes are on. It is not recommended that you climb the route to the top as described in the guidebook due to the looseness of the prominent, double, inside corner near the top. Finish instead at the new two bolt anchor used by the two routes to the right. The start is at the left end of the slab in a shallow, 30 ft. high, right facing corner. This route can also be done in a couple of different ways.

Pitch 1- 5.6 Climb a right slanting crack to a point where it's possible to step over an awkward bulge (to the left 5.6, to the right 5.7+). Climb up easier rock, staying to the left of the third and fourth bolts on A Piece of Cake. Continue up the low angle slab to a large tree with slings, (original line) or step right after the bolts and belay at the two bolt anchor under a roof (same as for A Piece of Cake).
Pitch 2- 5.6 From the tree, exit right to a left facing corner, then up this and right to the 2 bolt belay. From the 2 bolt anchor, exit the belay to the left and climb the left facing corner until it is possible to step right onto the face. Climb up the face to the double bolt anchor shared by the previous two routes. This climb can also be done in one long pitch.

Descents- All these routes can be easily descended with a single 50 m rope.

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