Funhouse
Cathedral Ledge
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| Notice- On March 28, 2004 the pin on the 1st pitch corner was removed. |
Rack-Nothing out of the ordinary is required for this climb, a standard rack will do. Bring a full set of wired nuts, camming units up to about the size of a #3 Friend, plenty of shoulder slings and a few quickdraws.
Funhouse on Cathedral Ledge is one of the area's best intermediate routes. The climb has a great variety of different types of climbing on it and both pitches consist of very good rock with ample opportunities for excellent protection. The 5.7 corner on the first pitch is a really great little section of rock climbing which should not be missed. Both pitches on this route are rated 5.7. This route provides an excellent way to get up to the tree covered ledge from where it's possible to continue to the top via several different excellent climbs. It's also possible to rappel back down to the ground from the tree covered ledge at several different spots. Funhouse was first climbed in 1969.
The Classic 1st
Pitch Corner
The start to Funhouse is a little difficult to find because the climb doesn't actually begin at the very bottom of the cliff. Enter the woods from the parking area near the bulletin board at a sign marking the trail for Funhouse. Follow this trail (marked by yellow blazes) to the left (south) and then up through a steep blocky section and then up to a big face of rock. Here you'll find a 30 ft. tall, right-facing arch which is the start to Three Birches. Walk right from here along the base of the cliff about 75 feet and look for two clean inside corners facing right, about 80 feet above. Scramble up easy ledges through some trees to a good ledge at the base of these corners. Funhouse climbs the right hand corner.
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Another
View of the Corner
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Pitch 1- 80 ft, 5.7 Climb up this right hand, V-shaped dihedral past a fixed pin to a good ledge. It's possible to break up the first pitch into two by belaying here. Climb the right facing corner above this ledge and then follow a good crack to a ledge which is then followed by easy steps and a wide crack to a second long, narrow ledge which has a great crack rising up from it. Belay here. (Variation) It's also possible to begin the climb by climbing the crack which is in the left hand corner. This ends at the first ledge and is 5.8.
Pitch 2- 90 ft, 5.7 From the belay ledge, climb the steep jam crack (excellent crack climbing) which leads to a small tree making it easier to exit the crack onto a small ledge. Continue straight up, following a good crack which leads to a short inside corner facing left. From here you'll be able to reach a narrow ledge that will allow you to traverse left to some big trees to belay from. (Variation) If another party is already on the second pitch, it's possible to climb the face to the left of the normal crack via a series of short walls finishing with a thin crack to the belay trees.
It's possible to rappel to the ground from these trees if you have two 60 m ropes. If not, the rappel to the ground can easily be made in two rappels by using another tree down lower. If you're aiming for climbs that will take you to the top, the easiest way up is to scramble up the short steep rock to the right of the tree belay. Then scramble straight up until you hit another steep section of rock split by an awkward off-width crack. Easily walk left along the base of this steep section until you can head back up onto the main portion of the tree covered ledge.
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