Ice Conditions

Thursday December 22, 2011

After the freezing rain and rain of yesterday the warm temperatures of the last 24 hours I wondered what that did to the ice in Crawford Notch and on Frankenstein in particular. The ice did take a hit but there was ice left and as I write this we are falling below freezing here in North Conway. As I had hoped we made it through this short thaw and we can start to build ice again. Standard looked a little worn from the wear but it appeared that it had been climbed today by the packs I saw at the base,. I also saw a climber on Dropline but couldn't tell if he/she was leading or doing a top rope.

The forecast for Crawford Notch is for mostly below freezing daytime highs and well below freezing nighttime temps for the next 10 days or so. I expect this to be good conditions for ice. There is also some snow in the forecast and that is always helpful in building ice. Just remember the ice is still young and one should be a bit cautious if we do get another warm up since there is not a lot of mass to the climbs.

Dropline Click on the picture for a larger version

Dropline note the climber Click on the picture for a larger version

Dropline

Upper Penguin Click on the picture for a larger version

Standard Click on the picture for a larger version

Trestle Practice Slab

Smear

Pegasus

Chia

Tuesday December 20, 2011

I went up to Crawford Notch today expecting to see some ice today and I found some. Not only did I find ice but I saw quite a few climbers out as well. There were cars parked for Shoestring and Willey's Slide and there were at least 3 parties besides myself that climbed Standard Route and since I started pretty late probably others had climbed it as well.

So what I saw was that Willey's is likely in as is Standard but both are in early season condition. There might be a few other smaller climbs in but what was the most important was how far along things seemed to be. We are due for a short warm spell Wednesday but it is short and not very warm. Here is a Spot Forecast for Frankenstein Cliffs from the National Weather Service and if this forcast is correct ice should build and at least a few more climbs should come in for the Christmas and New Year week. Enjoy the photos.

View of Mount Washington From Crawford Notch

Standard Route Click on the picture for a larger version

Willey's Click on the picture for a larger version

Cinema Click on the picture for a larger version

Numbered Gullies on Willard Click on the picture for a larger version

Pegasus Click on the picture for a larger version

Smear Click on the picture for a larger version

Chia Click on the picture for a larger version

Trestle Practice Slab

Standard Route Click on the picture for a larger version

Standard Route Click on the picture for a larger version

Standard Route Click on the picture for a larger version

Hanging Gardens

Dracula Click on the picture for a larger version

Welcome to the Machine Click on the picture for a larger version

Sunday December 18, 2011

I was teaching an avalanche course today and took a few photos. Temperatures were cold and the ice look like it was getting pretty good. Hope you enjoy the photos.

Tuckerman Ravine Click on the picture for a larger version

Tuckerman Ravine Click on the picture for a larger version

Tuckerman Ravine Click on the picture for a larger version

Tuckerman Ravine Click on the picture for a larger version

Friday December 9, 2011

I went up to Huntington Ravine and Tuckerman Ravine today to check conditions. Wednesday and Wednesday night it snowed on Mount Washington with the snowline basically right at Pinkham. Yesterday there was the typical cold windy post storm conditions so I figured some ice must have formed. The mountain is wintery but the snow is pretty thin making the footing about as difficult as it gets. I didn't climb today because of a late start so all I did was climb up the Huntington Ravine Trail to the Alpine Garden then across to Tuckerman Ravine and back to Pinkham.

So for conditions here is my take. Footing will be challenging and leave lots of time for approach and descent. The weather should stay cold so the ice on Mount Washington should get better but it will still be in early season thin conditions. There is lots of water flowing and that will keep the ice from forming somewhat so expected hollow and unbonded ice tin lots of places. Bottom line is conditions this weekend are not going to be easy and will turn back all but the hardiest of climbers/mountaineers. Here are some pictures I hope you enjoy them.