Chia
Frankenstein, NEI 3+ - 4+
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Rack- standard
Chia is a beautiful, one pitch (or depending upon the line you choose, possibly two short pitches) route in the amphitheater at Frankenstein. The easiest way up is moderate and has plenty of stances from which to place screws. In "typical" conditions the ice is quite fat and fairly straightforward. Nothing other than a standard ice rack is needed for this climb. This route can receive a lot of sun, which can be a good or bad thing depending on the day or time of year. It's one of the first climbs to go out of shape in the spring. Like many of the climbs at Frankenstein, this one can be quite busy, but fortunately there are several lines possible.
Approach- follow the railroad tracks from the parking lot. Chia is best approached by following a climber's trail that leads up into the woods just before the trestle. Chia is the furthest route to the right at the top of the amphitheater, and is identified by the large ramp system, which extends its entire length from left to right. If approaching from the other end of the trestle, use caution as a portion of this approach is very exposed to falling ice (sometimes very large) from Widow's Walk.
The most straightforward line follows the ramp system for its entire length (3+). A good belay can be set up off a big tree at the base of the route and there are convenient trees at the top also. It's possible to follow the ramp all the way to the top. If doing this, it may not be possible to reach a good belay tree with a 50-meter rope. It's also possible to finish easily straight up just before the end of the ramp which is a little shorter and puts you in a better position to see your second. If the climb is already occupied or you're looking for more excitement, there are a couple of different lines you can take.
Variation 1- Climb the steep pillar at the bottom right hand edge of the climb and at its top work back left towards the ramp (4+). Follow the ramp to the top. This line is almost completely independent of the normal line.
Variation 2- It's also possible to climb steeply more or less up the middle of the route (4+). This variation crosses the normal route and therefore may not be a good option if a party is already on the ramp. Finish up just right of the prominent pillar at the top. The pillar itself (very steep) is a popular top-rope problem and is easily setup from trees at the top. Belay from the top.
Descent- An easy walk-off to the right leads back down to the base of the climb.
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The ramp is obvious in this photo. The steep pillar of variation 1 is at the bottom right hand edge of the photo. The higher climber is finishing variation 2. |
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