The
Book of Solemnity Cathedral Ledge
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First
Pitch
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Rack- A standard rack is all you need for this climb.
The Book of Solemnity is one of the major classics in the area. Two pitches of exceptionally fine granite going up a beautiful corner make for outstanding climbing. This route is very well protected and has an excellent belay ledge at the end of the first pitch. The climb is located at the far right hand side of the tree covered ledge which splits the left hand side of the cliff at mid-height. There are a number of excellent climbs that will get you to this ledge. At it's far right hand side, to the right of the Upper Refuse ramp, you'll find a perfect inside corner which goes almost all the way up to the top of the cliff. This is The Book.
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Looking
Down on
Pitch 2 from the Top |
Pitch 1- 70 ft, 5.10a Climb the very smooth corner. It takes good gear and also has some fixed pro in it. Pass the small overhang and continue up the corner until you can exit right onto a beautiful belay ledge with two bolts on it.
Pitch 2- 120 ft, 5.9+ From the belay, traverse back left into the corner and follow it up until it ends at a small overlap. The climbing up this corner is fantastic. At the overlap make a tricky traverse to the left (there's a high road and a low road for this traverse). Reach easier climbing after just a few moves and continue out to the left until you can round the corner and get onto the Upper Refuse ramp at the small tree covered ledge. Don't belay here or place gear here (unless you are leading on two ropes) or you'll set up your second for a dangerous swing. You must anticipate what will happen if your partner falls on the crux! Climbers have been seriously injured here. Instead, continue easily up the Upper Refuse ramp to the next belay at the two fixed pins. Scramble up easily from here to a walk off or follow easy climbing to the fence at the tourist outlook.
© Chauvin Guides International, P.O. Box 2151, North Conway, NH 03860 Voice: 603-356-8919