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Marc's
Conditions Web Log
Thursday January 31, 2008
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Mount Washington from the top of the Rock Finish |
Yesterday I was at Frankenstein with Peter and Harry. We climbed Standard Left, Right and Center (normal line). The story of the day was the weather. When we got to the parking lot it was sleeting then we got freezing rain then rain then snow and finally as we were rappelling down the last climb the skies cleared! Despite the wide variety of precipitation the climbs pretty much stayed the same and maybe got a little better. All those climbs are in very good shape
Today I was climbing in the Amphitheater with Jerry. We climbed Chia, Rock Finish and Pegasus. I would call all three climbs in but I was surprised by the difficulty of the final column on Rock Finish. It is hard to not call it in seeing that it is as fat as I have ever seen it. Because it is so fat it is really steep making it a stout 10 or 15 feet of climbing. The final column on Pegasus is a bit harder than normal to climb but has some great stances on mushrooms and can be pretty well protected. Of the three routes I mentioned in the Amphitheater I could see an argument to call the Pegasus column climbable but not in. My take on the ice in the Amphitheater is that there is a lot to do there but expect things to be a bit harder than normal.
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Tuesday January 29, 2008
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Climbers
on Chia |
I have been very busy and it has been difficult keeping up with posting conditions. On Thursday I was in the Amphitheater with Phil and Dave then Friday I was in the Ravine climbing a cold and windy Pinnacle Gully. The weekend found me doing an avalanche course at Pinkham and around Hermit Lake. Yesterday I was at Frankenstein again climbing and climbed Standard Window Route, Standard Left and finally the Standard Normal Route.
Generally conditions are good with almost all the normal lines at Frankenstein back in after the thaw. We haven't gotten all the ice back that we lost in early January, but we had exceptional ice early in the year now we are having what appears to be an average season.
As I said above I was in Huntington on Friday, that was the first time I had climbed in there in awhile. Things looked pretty good but I was surprised by how Pinnacle looked. I am used to seeing a very fat first pitch by this point in the season but it looked a little anemic. Don't get me wrong it climbs and protects fine its just not as fat as I am used to seeing. The big news on Mount Washington is the persistence of the rain crust that formed during the rain event on January 9th. It seems there have been a number of accidents of people sliding out of control and getting hurt. Most have had relatively minor injuries and self evacuated to a point where they could get a ride down with the Snow Rangers so no real big rescues. The point is that if your going up on Mount Washington be prepared for icy conditions.
On Sunday I had the pleasure of skiing down the Sherburne Trail after nearly a foot of fluff had surprisingly fallen. It was one of the best descents I have had this year down that trail. Unfortunately the skiing higher up on the mountain is suffering from the icy conditions. That rain crust has been a factor in the avalanche hazard for the last couple of weeks so where there is snow on the crust there is some hazard and where there is no snow there is such a hard surface you can't ski it and there is a significant falling hazard.. Hopefully we might be rid of it soon too bad it might just get replaced with another crust given the forecast for tomorrow. With any luck we'll get either wet snow or rain then snow on the mountain so that things stick and cover the ice crust once and for all with something we can get an edge into! We'll see how the next couple of days affect conditions, I should be in Crawford Notch and Mount Washington the next couple of days and will post what I see.
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Wednesday January 23, 2008
I was at Frankenstein today with Philip and Dave and was able to get a few pictures of some of the routes so you can get an idea how things are forming. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are getting fatter and there should be a number of options there this weekend. I hope the photos help you in your planning.
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 Left of Standard looking good |
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Tuesday January 22, 2008
Since my last post I have taught an avalanche course in Vermont and climbed in Crawford Notch. On Friday January 19, the day I was driving to Vermont there was an accident on Mount Washington that resulted in a fatality. This is the first fatality on Mount Washington since 2004 and it is sad news not only for the friends and family of the deceased but the entire NE climbing community. The official accident report is here. The short version is that on Friday morning a solo climber named Peter headed up to Huntington Ravine to climb Odell's Gully. The avalanche hazard that day was posted at high. Apparently Peter was avalanched on or near the climb and passed away from the trauma of the fall. He was not buried by the debris when found. There has been a lot of speculation as to how or why someone would climb in high hazard, there has also been speculation that he left Pinkham for his climb before the avalanche report was posted at 8:22 am. Still he would of most certainly have seen the large slat board that is on the trail near the Harvard Cabin, or would he. I don't know what happened and Peter may have made the bad decision of climbing in the ravine in high hazard but it is plausible that he thought it was actually rated low.
Now as I said I do not know what happened but there is a series of events that could explain how someone as experienced as Peter could have this happen. Here are my thoughts on how this could happen to a number of climbers. If Peter had read the old forecast from Thursday at Pinkham he would have read that Escape Hatch, South and Odell's were rated low. If he had not noted the date and day at the top of the report he could have thought that it was a forecast for that morning. Again though the board near the Harvard Cabin could not be more obvious, unless he did not walk by the Harvard Cabin. Peter may have decided to hike the summer Huntington Ravine Trail that leaves the Tuckerman Trail prior to the winter Fire Road, that trail bypasses the Harvard Cabin. When that trail hits the Fire Road after the cabin there is a sign suggesting climbers check conditions at the cabin. If Peter had not noted the date on the avlanche report at Pinkham he would have been under the impression that he had the current forecast and conditions. After all the weather is posted an hour to an hour and a half ahead of the avalanche forecast and was likely current when he read that.
To me this is just as plausible maybe even more so than someone ignoring the high rating. For me it is too convenient to look at an accident in simplistic terms. When things are simplified it is easy to feel the delusion that that could never happen to me. Sometimes however accidents are a series of small events that conspire to create deadly situations, like not noticing the date on the avalanche report together with taking the summer trail. Because accidents in climbing are not fully investigated we sometimes do not get the whole story so climbers often speculate, assume and simplify. When that happens we all feel more comfortable but lose an opportunity to learn. So if my hypothesis of the accident isn't what happened I hope that the plausibility of it will help climbers and mountaineers understand the importance of vigilance and creates some good out of the sad loss of a fellow climber.
As for the conditions, on Sunday I was in Smuggler's Notch and although I am not very familiar with the climbs there and I didn't get to climb what I saw looked to be in pretty good shape, better I would say than what I have seen recently at Frankenstein. On Monday I went to Frankenstein with Kristina and Don. We started out on the Trestle Practice Slab then we climbed the far right side of Standard up a thin variation about 30 feet right of the cave, and then finished up Penguin. After that we did the normal line on Standard climbing the first two pitches in one then rappelling. Standard and Penguin are in good condition but still wet. The Amphitheater still looked very thin but forming with only Hobbit and Rock Finish looking ok. Chia, Smear and Cave look pretty close and this cold weather should help, Pegasus will be a bit longer due to the high flow of water coming down it.
Today I climbed Cinema to the East Slabs to the top of Willard with Philip and Dave. There was another roped party today on Cinema and someone soloed it. From the road Cinema looked better than it was, it was very climbable but pretty thin with protection being rare and anchors just adequate. The East Slabs are fat, I should mention that if it stays cold watch for ice dams on the East Slabs. The weather forecast is for continued cold so I suspect there will be good ice for the upcoming weekend.
 Don on the Far Right Side of Standard |
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 A thick looking but pretty thin Cinema |
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 Philip arriving at the summit of Willard |
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Thursday January 17, 2008
Eric and I went up to Frankenstein today and did some ice climbing. I didn't have my camera so I don't have any pictures of the climbs. We started on Standard Right Side and Rappelled off. The ice on that side of Standard was good. After the rappel we went up the center of Standard and then climbed Penguin. Again the ice was good but you could see the consequences of the thaw and there is still quite a bit of water flowing. After we hiked down we did Standard Left and Rappelled.
The bottom line for conditions is anything that remained after the thaw has gotten pretty good. Wiley's, Dracula, Standard, Standard Left, Rock Finish, Hitchcock and the East Side Slabs of Willard all look pretty good. The routes that fell down are reforming but are not ready to be climbed. It looks like Smear and Chia maybe ready for the second half of the weekend or on Monday but its hard to be sure. Someone gave Dropline a go today but backed-off. It looks thin but well bonded and may be climbable now but just!
The forecast is for some real cold coming in and I suspect by the middle of next week we'll have a wide variety of ice to choose from. Hopefully it won't take that long and this weekend we'll have more than I think, it could happen.
Tuesday January 15, 2008
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Jay skinning up the Gulf of Slides Ski Trail |
Today Jay and I went up to the Gulf of Slides to see if the snow yesterday had created good skiing conditions. There was no more snow at Pinkham than in North Conway, only about 6-7 inches. The climb up was difficult because the trail under the snow was icy and the new snow was too fluffy to get traction on. As we made our way to the base of the Gulf we could see only a little snow moving at the ridge top level so we were feeling pretty good about the avalanche hazard. We headed up Gully #3 but the icy conditions and thin powder was creating a dust on crust type of condition. Once we got to a point were the gully steepened and crampons were becoming necessary we started our descent. Most of the time in the winter I rather not ski down something I need crampons to climb up!
Despite the thin nature of the snow the ski down the Gulf of Slides Ski Trail was pretty good, particularly on the lower angle sections. Whenever you could keep your skis flat and not edge too hard you would stay in the powder. If you cranked hard on a turn you quickly got to the icy base but even that wasn't so bad.
During our ascent and descent there was very little wind and the wind loading in the Gulf was only light to moderate in the start zones from what we could see. Once down at Pinkham we could see pretty steady wind loading in Huntington. Right now in the valley there is very little wind and the summit winds are pretty reasonable at around 30mph. Keep an eye out on the avalanche hazard forecast if you plan on climbing in the ravines. If the winds stay light, this thin snow may take awhile to blow around and end up where it will finally rest. That may lengthen the time it will take to stabilize.
 The lower part of Gully #3 |
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 Pretty good turns on The Gulf of Slides Ski Trail |
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Monday January 14, 2008
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Jay giving a quick clinic on the hike up to Hermit Lake |
This weekend I was teaching an avalanche course so I spent most of Saturday in the classroom and Sunday I was up in the vicinity of Tuckerman Ravine. It was a beautiful weekend and Sunday was a great day to be on Mount Washington. As I had hoped the precipitation on Friday was not substantial enough to elevate the avalanche hazard or ruin the snow climbing on Mount Washington for the weekend. I talked with a few people who climbed in Huntington and they said it was very good cramponing on the snow and the ice sections although thinner than they had been, were still good. All in all a great weekend for climbing on Mount Washington.
After the avalanche course a number of us skied down the Sherburne Trail. The conditions were less than optimal, but it was much better than I had expected. The coverage is good and there was no blue ice on the trail as there often is after it rains. There were a few thin spots but the emphasis is on a few. Fortunately the snow rangers had driven the snowcat on the ski trail to chop it up some and help cover up some dangerous post holes that were caused by someone hiking up or down the ski trail during the thaw. Fortunately no one was hurt this weekend (that I know of) as a result of the hazard caused by the post holes.
Today it snowed about 7 inches in North Conway so that has changed the snow climbing and skiing conditions and will likely elevate the avalanche hazard on Mount Washington. This will be the case for at least a day or so depending on the final snow totals on the mountain and the strength and direction of the inevitable upcoming winds. The forecast temperatures and this snow should help get the ice in the notches to develop, we'll see how fast the ice can come back.
Thursday January 10, 2008
Edited 7:30 PM I went up to Pinkham Notch after writing the post below. I have added a few pictures and can say that it appears that the snowfields and gullies look pretty good.
I haven't written in a week because I have been waiting for the end of our January thaw. Last Saturday I was up on Mount Washington with an avalanche course and got some skiing in, on Sunday I was ice climbing at Frankenstein. In both cases I knew conditions were changing so fast that by the time I posted, the info would be out of date. Both Monday and Tuesday were warm but the final gasp of this thaw was the heavy rain we got yesterday. Today was still above freezing in the valey but it appears we are in for predominately below freezing temperatures for the foreseeable future
The bottom line for ice conditions in Crawford Notch is that we are starting all over again. There is a little ice left but for the most part it is all gone. The climbs that might be worth climbing this weekend are Wiley's, Dracula, Standard and Rock Finish. There may be things like Htchcock and the slabs on the East Side of Willard also worth looking at. I do not have any first hand info on the ravines or the Dike.
My only advice if you really want to climb this upcoming weekend is look to Mount Washington. If we get a good freeze we might see excellent snow climbing conditions in Tuckerman and Huntington Ravine. That will depend on two things, a hard sustained freeze and no significant precipitation (snow) tomorrow that would elevate the avalanche hazard. Which route to choose if those things happen is something I cannot speak to since I haven't seen what the consequences the rain has had on the specific climbs and gullies. Today's; 1/10/08 Avalanche Report seems to indicate that a freeze has taken place, now if the precip tomorrow is light you might get some good climbing in with very good snow stability. Ice dams and the falling hazard on snow even in moderate terrain will be particularly important to watch for.
I would say enjoy the photos, but!
 Mount Willard |
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 Dracula |
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 The Amphitheater |
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 Tuckerman Ravine and Left Gully |
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January 3, 2008
I often get asked about equipment and gear lists. I have a generic equipment list that I have been meaning to update for some time. With all the choices out there, soft-shells, hard-shells, soft-shells with and without windstopper, light or heavier hard-shells, many combinations can be made to work. I didn't want to have a list of gear that was so specific that people climbing with me got the impression they needed a whole new wardrobe or a list so generic that it was useless.
When I think of a clothing system that I use day to day, I think of a three part system. First is a next to skin layer that will wick moisture away. Second is an insulation layer that will resist losing its insulation properties when it gets damp. Third is a wind and moisture proof yet breathable exterior. This third layer may need to be actually waterproof at times, but to be honest that is rare in a New England winter. Once this three layer system is in place, you can add what people call a belay jacket which is an insulated over jacket, and even insulated over pants for times when more warmth is needed for a short period.. Then there are the accessories such as hats, gloves, and socks etc.
So the best way for me to illustrate this systematic approach is to list what I wear and carry. Now for full disclosure, I am not sponsored by any companies but I do receive a few pieces of free gear through the AMGA that is given to those of us that instruct guide courses. I also receive discounts from most manufactures and distributors that are afforded to professionals. The bottom line is I use gear from a wide variety of companies and do not have a contract to wear or push any specific company.
Here is the list:
Patagonia
Capilene 2 Long Sleeve Crew Neck
Patagonia
Capilene 3 Bottoms
Patagonia
Capilene 4 Zip T-Neck
Patagonia
Super Guide Pants
Marmot
Super Hero Jacket
Patagonia
Heavyweight Mountaineering Sock
Patagonia
Big Mountain Beanie
Patagonia
Neck Gaiter
Mountain
Hardware Jalapeno Glove
In my Cold Cold World Valdez Pack I carry an extra hat, neck gaiter and Patagonia Micro Puff Pants. I also bring a butt pack from Ragged Mountain Equipment similar to this that I can climb with so I can leave the big pack at the base, in the butt pack I have an extra pair of gloves along with Patagonia Micro Puff Jacket and a 1/2 liter of Gatorade. For boots I wear the La Sportiva Nepal Evo Gtx along with the Petzl Dart Lever Lock Crampon and my climbing tools are Petzl Quark Ice Hammers.
If it is going to be a cold day I may add a polartec vest like this and go to a Patagonia Capilene 4 Bottoms to replace the Capilene 3 pair I mention above. If I think it will be particularly wet or a high wind day on Mount Washington I bring along an EMS Thunderhead Sync Rain Jacket and the EMS Thunderhead Full Zip Pants. This year I have not been using boot gaiters but if I feel I will need the wind pants I wear the Ragged Dura Stretch Gaiter because wind/rain pants can catch crampons easily so I can protect the pants from cramponing and avoid the tripping hazard that can cause.
As I said above there are many systems, I hope you find this helpful in deciding how to build and manage yours.
January 1, 2008
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Chad and Jeana feeling good after a day of climbing in the Amphitheater |
Happy New Year! As I write this 2008 is starting with a snowstorm in the White Mountains, so far we have had an amazing winter both for ice and snow. The last two days of 2007 were spent climbing with Chad and Jeana both had done some top rope rock climbing and a little ice on a glacier on Mount Rainier. We started at the Trestle Practice Slab the normal route of the slab was taken as was the left side and a line just right of the normal line, I setup a top rope on the far right side. Our line was thin and hard to protect but worked as a good warm-up and a place to do a short movement clinic. I mention this because I can't remember a time in the past 30 years that there was enough ice to fit 4 ropes on the practice slabs, 2007 sure ended with an incredible ice crop.
While we were top roping we heard of an accident further down the tracks. Someone had fallen and we were told he had a leg injury and there were a number of people there to help. We broke down the tope rope and headed down the tracks and noticed a group up at the base of Walk in the Forest area. I headed up to see if I could be of some help. The group with the victim had things under control so I only helped a little to get him down to the railroad tracks. After helping out we went to Standard to climb the normal line on that route.
The story of the accident I have heard is that it was a rappelling accident where the victim mistook a 5 or 10 meter mark on the rope as a center mark and rappelled off the end thinking both ends were down. I heard this second hand so I wouldn't put much stock in it, The reason I mention it at all is because I have personal experience with this scenario, I have also read what appears to be two firsthand reports about this happening to other climbers on the Internet. My conclusion is that there appears to be a trend. In the situation I know about firsthand it happened to a very experienced apprentice guide during an AMGA Advanced Alpine Guide Course. To me this means that despite what many people might think, it might not be as easy an accident to avoid as it might sound. The first defense against this happening is realizing it does happen. Putting knots in the end of your rope is often mentioned as a remedy for this as well as other "rappelling off the end of the rope" scenarios. There is no doubts knots can make a difference but in windy conditions they can get stuck off to the side causing a serious problem or get stuck below the next anchor causing you to have to descend down then ascend back up and that complication can have its own risks. I also have had some knots come untied from the spinning motion of the kinks working out during the rappel. The best defense against any accident is a layered system of safeguards. For instance to avoid the hazard of rappelling off the end you might use a system that knots can be part of along with the habit of visual inspection of the ends and feeding the rope through the anchor in a way that equalizes the ends. If any of these safeguards are not able to be done due to the situation you are in, more vigilance needs to be paid to the remaining layers of your system. It is easy to think that you won't make what appears to be a simple mistake but accidents often can be short-circuited by simple processes that are not done. No one is immune from a lack of focus or experience in a situation that can quickly cause accident, one effective method of risk management is a multi-layered approach to the safety system. I hope the victim recovers fully and that we can all learn from the event.
On New Years Eve Day Chad, Jeana and I headed to the Amphitheater. We did a number of climbs and variations of climbs. We started with Chia by its normal line then Rock Finish and then back to Chia by its steep right-hand variation. We then headed up the first pitch of Hobbit and rappelled from the bolts. Conditions haven't changed much, Pegasus is still not really forming back up and is running with water. Chia is also still hollow sounding and hasn't gotten any better, I still consider it in as it climbs and protects as one would expect of a climb of that rating. The cold weather that is predicted this midweek should have a positive impact on all the ice.
 Chad on the fat second pitch of Standard |
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 Dry-tooling on the Rock Finish |
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 Jeana getting to the rest on the right-side of Chia |
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