Ice Climbing Conditions for New Hampshire and the Mount Washington Area

Ice Climbing Conditions

Marc's Conditions Web Log

Saturday December 29, 2007

Nice lighting looking south down the trestle

I was at Frankenstein today, it seems this holiday week I've been climbing steep ice quite a bit. I am not complaining but I haven't gotten to see how things like Cinema and Willey's Slide have been doing. We had more snow last night that changed to a light drizzle before clearing. The lighting this afternoon was really nice with a pretty sunset to cap off the day.

I was climbing today with Peter and Deb, both had done some top-rope ice climbing but that was two years ago. Our plan was to setup a couple of top-ropes to get back into the swing of things then do a longer climb in the afternoon. After approaching down the railroad tracks we got to the Trestle Practice Slabs and there was a party already on that route so we headed to a route on the Trestle Road Cut. After a little clinicing, Peter and Deb gave the route a try. After we were done with that route the Slab opened up and we headed for that to work more on footwork. After a couple of goes on the Slab we headed down the tracks to Standard where Peter did the first two pitches of the normal line on Standard, from there we rappelled down from a thread and headed back to the car watching a nice sunset.

This was the first time I have had the chance to climb in the trestle area and the first time this season I have done the normal line on Standard. The trestle routes are in good shape with the steep lines at the road cut in a thin but fun condition with lots of variations possible. Standard was in great shape with the ice today being a dream to climb, nice and soft but good solid screws and not too wet. So far this season has been great with good ice, moderate temperatures and little wind, an exceptional start to the 2007-2008 winter.

Deb on the Trestle Slab

Peter on the first pitch of Standard

Peter getting above the cave on Standard

Topping out the second pitch of Standard

A fat and happy Standard route

Friday December 28, 2007

Keith on Penguin

Today I got to climb with Keith and Paul. Both had climbed with me before but for Keith it had been a couple of years since he had done any ice and Paul had rock climbed with me but ice was something he had limited experience in. We wanted to start with a warm-up that could lead to a harder finish, so we decided to head to Standard with the potential of finishing on Penguin. When we got to Standard there were people heading up the normal line but the right hand variation was open so we headed for that. We started by going to the cave then a short second pitch got us over the cave, from there we went up the steep initial pillar of Penguin to a belay at the base of the tight chimney, a short fourth pitch got us to the top. Keith had quickly cleared the cobwebs out and Paul was clearly a natural, it was time to take it up a notch!

During our approach, climb and descent of Standard to Penguin I was able to get a good view of a number of climbs that I hadn't seen in quite some time, particularly since the rain event Sunday night. Standard, Standard Right, Penguin and both sides of Dracula all look very good and are clearly "in". Dropline looked solid and there was lots of ice in the Hanging Gardens and on the Trestle Road Cut. Welcome to the Machine was very thin and seemed unclimbable. It appeared to me that the rain had very little impact on the climbs at this end of Frankenstein.

After our descent we made our way to the Amphitheater. I wanted to do Rock Finish but there were two parties on the route so I took it up two notches and headed up Hobbit. Both Keith and Paul cruised up the climb, clearly the masters age group at the X games is in their future! Once we got back down Rock Finish had cleared out so we headed up that. After completing that we had some time so we headed up the steep right hand side of Chia. Again both cruised up that and although we all had a bit more energy we had run out of time as dusk was quickly changing to darkness.

Not much has changed in the Amphitheater since yesterday, Pegasus and Bob's are both in sad shape. I did get a chance to see Smear and it looked good and I know that it was climbed today. I don't know if it is "in" but if not it will soon be, all the other main flows are good and getting better. All in all Frankenstein has a number of good lines and a wide variety of routes to choose from.

Paul on the upper part of Penguin

Keith swinging away on Penguin

Paul in a stem on Hobbit

Paul showing his flexibility on a wide stem in the Hobbit Couloir

Keith with solid dry tools on Rock Finish

Keith working the feet on Rock Finish

Thursday December 27, 2007

The pillar on Pegasus, gone!

I finally got out after our short warm-up to see how the ice faired from the rain. I was climbing with Coby today and the Frankenstein Amphitheater was the best place to do the things he wanted to accomplish. Our day today nearly mirrored my day with Dom on Saturday except for one big exception, we couldn't climb the upper pillar of Pegasus because it wasn't there! The other climbs, Chia, Hobbit, and Rock Finish all were good with Chia showing the most signs of wear. Given the dramatic disappearance of the Pegasus pillar, the other climbs were little changed and climbed much like they had climbed on Saturday. As I said, Chia was more hollow sounding and a bit more difficult to top out on. The normal diagonal line however is still "in" in my opinion but the steeper direct finish looked more beat and probably is more difficult than normal.

Coby and I started our day by doing the thin right-hand variation to Pegasus then heading up Rock Finish. That start was still thin but it was comparable to when I did it Saturday, the Rock Finish hadn't changed at all from what I could tell. After descending, Coby led the first pitch of Hobbit and I led the second, Hobbit from what I could tell had gotten a little fatter than on Saturday. From the top of Hobbit we walked down and Coby led Chia. The climb sounded quite hollow but was thick enough that it climbed fine with a little spice at the top just before the woods.

My conclusion about conditions is that climbs with high water flow will be very effected by the rain on Sunday night. I would think Arethusa, Champney and climbs like that would be pretty iffy. Climbs that were thin on Saturday may have lost some ice but should rebound. Bob's Delight a climb that had just come in recently was both a little thin and has a fair bit of flow, from what I could see today it will be awhile before it comes back. The bottom line is that Sunday's rain set us back a little but we were so far ahead of normal that we still have a good deal of ice. In the end this little warm-up may do us more good than harm, but I do wish Pegasus had stayed up!

Coby starting the first pitch of Hobbit

Stemming on the Hobbit's second pitch

Locked off and focused near the top of Hobbit

Sunday December 23, 2007

Yesterday Dom and I spent the day in n the Frankenstein Amphitheater. Dom wanted to do some leading so we headed right to Chia. Dom did a great job of leading that and the climb was in very good shape. After descending that we headed to Hobbit Couloir, Dom led the first pitch to the bolts and I led the second. Hobbit was also in very good shape. From there we headed down and over to Pegasus, we climbed that by first doing the thin right-hand variation that I had done with Bob two days before then we finished the normal pillar to the top. Pegasus had a number of ascents yesterday and is solidly "in".

Chia, Hobbit, Rock Finish, Cave and Pegasus all got done numerous times yesterday, the only major climb in the Amphitheater that I didn't see get climbed and haven't seen up close is Smear. I would call all the the climbs in the Amphitheater "in" except for Smear which might be but I cant be sure. As I write this however it is raining, it seems that this rain won't do much damage and that it is predicted to get cold tomorrow and stay that way for the foreseeable future. The ice may suffer some negative impacts for Christmas Eve and Christmas but my guess it will be back to where it was yesterday by Wednesday or Thursday. This is partially due to the thick snowpack we have and its ability to absorb water. The other thing working in our favor is the unusual thickness of the ice we have and I believe it will be able to withstand this short term warm-up.

I won't be updating things till after Christmas so I want to wish everyone a Merry Christmas.

Dom leading Chia

Dom enjoying the lead on the 1st pitch of Hobbit

The thin right-hand vaiation on the start of Pegasus

The final pillar of Pegasus

Friday December 21, 2007

Eric on the Crux

Today was a beautiful winter day with fresh snow, no wind and warm temperatures. A perfect day to do the Black Dike. It just so happened Dominique and I had planned to do just that. We met at the trailhead at 7:30 and began the approach. It appeared there was another party ahead of us. The trail up was in good shape, it was obvious that the Dike has been popular this season. When we arrived at the base I could see why, I don't think I have ever seen the Dike in such good condition particularly this early.

As we suspected another party was on the route and they were both at the top of the 1st pitch as I started to lead. Because of how fat the climb is, I was able to climb the first pitch further to the right than normal and stay pretty much out of the line of fire. As I arrived at the end of the pitch Ryan, the leader of the the party ahead of us, was about 1/3 of the way up the crux pitch. He had decide to climb the ice straight up instead of doing the traverse. I belayed directly under Hassig's Direct which is in thick shape by the way and as I belayed Dom, Eric and I chatted. It was truly an amazing day, I know because I was in the Dike and I was pretty warm!

Dom arrived at the belay just as Eric was getting ready to climb. Dom and I transitioned and I was off up towards Hassig's as I was planning to still do the traverse even though it was unnecessary. I waited at the traverse and got some great photos of Eric on the crux. Once he cleared the pitch I went up and belayed just below the fixed anchor where I could still see Dom. Ryan and Eric made quick work of the third pitch and Dom and I followed shortly thereafter. The Dike on a good day is a great thing and one of the most fun climbs.

The Dike is in fat condition and Fafnir looks pretty good but the top looked a little difficult, it's hard to tell without climbing it. The trails are in very good shape given the snow we have had and the descent has some great glissading. I suspect the descent could get too icy to glissade if we get the rain showers on Sunday.

The crux of the Black Dike, no need for the rock traverse

Hassig's looking fat

Dom in the narrows

A fun day in the Black Dke

The last pitch

Dom topping out

Thursday December 20, 2007

Bob on the 1st Bulge of Penguin

Today was my first day ice climbing for this season. Although it seems late this year because of the incredible conditions, I'm only 5 to 7 days later than average. I spent the day today at Frankenstein with Bob. It was snowing all day and about 6 inches fell overnight so the ice was pretty covered. The major trails had been broken out since the storm this weekend but hadn't had a lot of traffic. There were some sections that appeared to have seen no one and in those places the work was substantial. There were a few other parties at Frankenstein today and by the end of the day trails were getting better so you can expect moderate to easy walking between climbs till the next storm. The next storm, that rolls right off the tongue, we seem to be in a regular pattern and the snowpack is building fast, it looks more like February out there than mid December. I will say this if you are planning on hiking I would definitely throw the snowshoes in the car because if the trail isn't well traveled you won't go far without them.

As for the ice it was in remarkably good shape. Today Bob and I climbed Standard using the variation that goes out over the overhang of the Cave to Penguin, Bob's Delight then Pegasus Rock Finish. All those climbs were solidly "in". Chia also looked in as did Hobbit, the normal finish to Pegasus is nearly there and looked very climbable. I didn't get a good look at Smear or Dracula but there seemed like there were things to do at the Hanging Gardens. My sense walking around today is that we are clearly past "early season" and into the season.

The upper part of Penguin

Working the stem on Penguin

The thin right-hand variation to the start of Pegasus

Wednesday December 19, 2007

Getting ready to ski Hillman's Highway

After a 3 week hiatus from writing in the conditions web log I've returned from vacation in the Canary Islands and have gotten back into the New England winter. Jane and I returned home from Tenerife to a nearly paralyzing snowstorm in Boston on Thursday Dec 13. We made our way north via 93 because we had to stop to pick some things up in Laconia, NH. After 5 hours of driving we had just made it to Manchester, NH! An agonizing 12 mph average speed!

We made it home the next day and I started preparing for the avalanche course I was teaching over the weekend. For an early season course we had plenty of snow and more fell on Sunday. The course went well but I didn't take any photos because of the limited visibility. On Monday I started another avalanche course this time a private one for a group of three Canadians from Quebec.

Monday was a great day to spend teaching in the classroom with the mountain having high winds, limited visibility, cold temperatures and an elevated avalanche hazard. On Tuesday however we had a great field day with clear skies to start, moderating temperatures, light to moderate winds and a significant drop in the avalanche hazard.

After skinning up the Tuck's Trail and covering some of the curriculum we headed up past Hermit Lake through the brushy start to Hillman's Highway and quickly got to some good snow. We climbed up the majority of the gully to the top of the good quality snow and started our descent. We ended up climbing up about 2/3rd of Hillman's before we started down. After a few turns of wind sculpted snow we hit smooth wind packed snow that was great to ski.

After we picked our way down the brushy bottom section of Hillman's we skied down the Sherburne Trail back to Pinkham. On Sunday the Sherburne was a nice powder run but with the end of the storm on Sunday changing to freezing rain and sleet along with the wind on Monday the Sherburne was quite variable and a little difficult. Despite that the coverage was good and a solid skier can still find a good time skiing down it.

I've thrown in some pictures of Tenerife along with this report, hope you enjoy them.