Monday Jan 29, 2007
Yesterday I was climbing in the Frankenstein Amphitheater with Eric. Eric had some background ice climbing but had not been on any long routes in a while. We started out by top roping a steep variation to the first pitch of Pegasus. It's a steep shallow corner on the right side of Pegasus that faces north. After a lap on that we continued up, climbing the right side of the upper column. During that time another party climbed up the face of the column. Without a doubt the ice season is in full swing. Two parties climbing up Pegasus simultaneously only goes to show how things have gotten fatter over the last two weeks. After our descent Eric and I started up Pegasus Rock Finish. We started by heading up the Hobbit Couloir and then broke left towards Pegasus. Using this variation allows you to easily do this route in one long pitch. This was Eric's first time dry-tooling and he moved smoothly up the rock crux. After finishing that, we took a quick run up Chia then we headed to do Bob's Delight. The ice as I said is doing great, there are a few things to note however. Hobbit is starting to look pretty well "climbed" This is usual for this route but if you plan on doing it expect it to be a little beat up. Same goes for the column leading up to the rock finish. Again this is not unusual but it does speak to the fact there are lots of people getting their ice climbing in! What was nice was having Bob's Delight in. I really enjoy that route and with its southern exposure it can be both sunny and very protected from the cold northwest winds. On a trail running note, I got a call from my friend Tim last night to tell me he had done a run up Mount Washington via the Lion's Head Trail yesterday. His time was an incredible 2 hours 11 minutes round trip! His time to the summit was just over an hour and a half making his descent from the summit under 40 minutes. Tim said the footing was good yesterday and the weather a bit brisk but clear. He did not use any traction devices on his running shoes. Tim had hiked up the mountain numerous times this year and had been waiting for the kind of weather he needed to make this attempt possible. At the start he wasn't sure that yesterday would be the day but the mountain cleared as he drove up and he was able to make it happen. Weather is so important for success in the mountains. Having climbed Friday through Sunday this weekend I can tell you there is a huge difference between the kind of cold and wind we had Friday to the sunny skies and seasonable temperatures on Sunday. It's always important to match your goals to the weather and conditions and waiting to acquire the big goals when the conditions are right.
Saturday Jan 27, 2007
Joe and I went to Frankenstein today. We started by heading over to Standard Route. There were quite a few people there. Actually, Frankenstein was pretty busy overall. It seems the word is out that the ice is in and despite the cold yesterday, today had reasonable temperatures with no wind. Joe and I started up the right side of the flow to the cave. There were two parties already there but both were exiting to the left. One party had the pins on the left side of the cave while another party led by Kevin Mahoney was belaying off of ice screws in the ice in the center of the cave. That left the bolts on the right side of the cave open for parties heading out the Window Route. It's always nice when parties plan for other parties on busy weekends. It allows more climbers to enjoy a somewhat limited resource. Joe and I went up one more pitch by climbing through the window to the lower rappel tree. From the rappel tree we descended back down to the start. Joe wanted to get a bit more coaching down low so I setup a short top-rope so Joe could work on his technique. After that, I led up the center of the flow and belayed back in the cave but this time the pins were free on the left. Joe followed that pitch and we still had time for another pitch. We climbed out the left side of the cave and belayed about 60 feet up. Joe made quite a breakthrough and climbed that pitch very well. From there we rappelled again and headed back to town. The ice at Frankenstein was pretty brittle after the cold yesterday but it is continuing to form in most places. Every day things look better. For instance, Bob's Delight looked in today and that is the first time I have seen it so fat this year.
Friday Jan 26, 2007
Today was one of the coldest days of the season so far and Joe and I had plans to climb. This was the first time Joe has ever climbed outside and therefore, his first time ice climbing. I decided to head to the warmest place I could think of, Cathedral Ledge. We started with the low angle slab at the North End, then we did Thresher. After that, we did a lap on the steep columns and the we headed to Goofers. Joe did great today. With the ice as hard as a rock and cold temperatures, it was a tough day to learn how to ice climb but Joe did well. The climbs at the North End are pretty good. The low angle slab is fat and Thresher is OK. The steep columns are pretty thin but very doable. On the other hand, Goofers is pretty thick. I have seen it thicker, but you are able to get short screws at the start and it keeps getting thicker as you go up. There have been many years I have seen it thinner and it appears to be getting fatter. I also looked at the Super Goofers Pillar. It looked like someone tried to climb it, but it looked like they didn't finish it. My impression was that it could be done, but it was not "in". It looks like the temperatures will moderate this weekend. It's hard to hope for warmer weather after the slow start to the season, but above zero temperatures would be nice!
Wednesday Jan 24, 2007
What a cold and windy weekend we went through. I was happy to be working indoors on Saturday teaching one of ourAIARE Level One Avalanche Courses. Sunday was our field day and it was pretty cold but the wind kept diminishing throughout the day and the sun was shining so that took the edge off a bit. Today I was climbing with Ken. Ken wanted to do a bunch of leading so we went to Cinema Gully to climb that and then headed over to the East Slabs. We climbed up Cinema but it was pretty thin. We were getting good sticks, but the ice is so thin that screws were not very useful for a leader. You could get short screws for an anchor to belay a second, but the leader is definitely in a position were a fall would be serious for the entire party. From the top of Cinema we went over to the East Slabs area. We went past the East Slabs across Hitchcok gully and climbed East Slab Right Side. Ken led this and we ended up on top just after noon. From the top we bushwhacked to the Mount Willard Trail and hiked that trail down back to the car. With a good chunk of the afternoon left, Ken and I went over to Frankenstein and headed to the Amphitheater. The goal here was for Ken to lead Chia. The start was a bit difficult but it had filled in some more since last week. Ken did a great job on the lead and we were soon at the top of Chia. After hiking down, we went over to the base of Pegasus and I led that in one pitch to the top. It was a great day of climbing, hitting two areas and getting a good mix of moderate and difficult pitches. The condition of the ice is good, Pegasus is climbable. I chose to climb up the right side of the column. It appeared to be easier than the front. It is a bit harder than normal, but it seems to be getting better every day. Finally there is a lot of ice around and despite getting a late start this year, it appears it's starting to become a normal season now. The forecast is for seasonable or below seasonable temps for the foreseeable future. If you've been waiting for things to form to get out there, the time has come!!!
Friday Jan 19, 2007
Today, Ken and I went over to Cannon to climb the Black Dike. The weather in Conway was partly sunny and stayed that way for most of the drive to Cannon. The sky was still bright when we started the approach but it was obvious there had been snow showers in the area. Cannon was white with a thin layer of new snow and the scree pile also had a thin layer of new snow. This made the approach a little slippery. Later in the day we were in the fog with light snow showers. When we reached the base another party was there starting the first pitch. We followed them up to see what options we might have. In the end they decided to do Fafnir and Ken and I did the Dike. It was real nice of them to belay at the top of the 1st pitch in such a way as to allow Ken and I to do the Dike cleanly. That party was comprised of two local climbers who work at Mooney Mountain Guides. They also gave us some info, it seems that all the fixed gear that protects the rock traverse had been removed at some point over the last week or so. They didn't know exactly when this was done or who did it. As usual I had some rock gear so this wasn't a problem. This fixed gear is often used as an anchor for those who choose a rappel descent. The anchor at the top of the 2nd pitch is reportedly still there but the ice has covered it up so you can't use it. The bottom line is be prepared to protect the traverse with your gear, there is no fixed gear on the traverse. Also you will need to use threads if you want to rappel. I must say it was nice not to have the rats nest of gear there, it made the climb more aesthetic and interesting. The climb was thin but very climbable, I got a few 17cm screws in and one 21cm but I used mostly 13cm and a 10cm on each pitch. Given its grade and my previous experience with this route I would call it in but I wouldn't call it fat or in easy condition. I didn't get a good look at Fafnir because of the fog and snow showers but it looked at least a thin.
Thursday Jan 18, 2007
Well, after a week of cold weather, it's official, the ice season has begun. I went to Frankenstein today and although there were still a lot of climbs not in, there were a number of climbs that were and quite a few that were climbable. Matter of fact, the reason some routes are not very appealing to climb was because they were so wet. On top of that, we have snow forecasted for tonight and below freezing high temperatures predicted for the next 10 days! I think there will be a fair bit of climbing in Crawford Notch this weekend and by midweek next week, things will almost be normal. Like I said, today I went to Frankenstein to climb with Ken. We walked halfway across the Trestle to see what was going on with the Amphitheater and quickly decided to head in there to climb. Our first objective was Hobbit Couloir. It was in good shape and it was protectable. This climb always feels harder to me than the 4+ it gets for a rating and today was no different. After getting to the top of that, Ken and I walked down and started back up toward Hobbit. But, this time we exited left and headed for the Pegasus Rock Finish. Again it took gear and was about as hard as normal. It was great to be climbing route after route in the Amphitheater. Once we topped out on that route, we walked down and climbed Chia. Again the route took gear but the start was a little harder than normal. Based on the footprints in the area, Chia was the only route that had seen an ascent since the snow and Ken and I were the only climbers in the Amphitheater today. For the late afternoon, Ken and I walk over to Standard Route where we saw the first and only people all day. Ken lead the first two pitches of Standard. Then we rappelled off ending a great day ice cragging at Frankenstein. With the expectations of continued cold, I am ready for a bunch of days of ice cragging in Crawford and other places. Once again, I got pictures and conditions reports from two other sources, Travis Piper form Eastern Mountain Sports Climbing School and Guy DeBrun from University of Maine/Maine Bound. Here is what Travis had to say about Way in the Wilderness "Went over to look at Way in the Wilderness- the route is in, but there was too much shrapnel coming off of the cliff in the sun. We did a nice easy mixed route to the left, Stormy Monday." Here is what Guy had to say about Katahdin, "Last week we were able to ski in with approx. 4 inches down low and 6-8 inches at Chimney."
Wednesday Jan 17, 2007 Well the weather has gotten colder! We all knew some cold temperatures would come and I got to feel them come in, where it would be the most dramatic, Mount Washington! I climbed yesterday with Tom and Tom who had climbed Willey's Slide with me earlier this season. The day was cold and blustery with temperatures dropping from -6F to -11F and the wind varied from 49mph to 64mph on the summit while we were above treeline! The day went well and both Tom's were strong and focused. It was not a very good day to stop for long periods of time and they both were able to keep a constant pace throughout the day. This was critical to our ability to summit on such a difficult day. Given that the youngest Tom is 13 years old bodes well for the future of mountaineering. On the conditions
side of things, Mount Washington is starting to look more and more
like winter and the trails are filled in pretty well. This is making
the footing both up and down excellent. I also got an e mail from
Jim Cullem giving me info about conditions on Mount Willard on Jan
14th and few a pictures that I have posted below, here is what he
said;
Friday Jan 12, 2007
Yesterday I made an attempt on Mount Washington with Jason and Shelby. I was surprised to see how much snow was on the lower slopes of Mount Washington. Starting from Pinkham it was apparent that the trail was going to be in good shape for our climb. As we went higher on the Tuckerman Ravine Trail there was more and more snow. This was the first time this season that the Tucks Trail looked like winter. When we got to the Huntington Fire Road I saw something that really made me happy, snowmobile tracks! The USFS Snow Rangers were using their snowmobiles for the first time this season. I found out later from Chris, the Hermit Lake Caretaker, that the snow rangers had been using them the last couple of days. He also told me that he had been skiing the Sherburne Trail the last two days and he was happy with the conditions. It seems the Snow Rangers were packing the ski trail with their snow machines to keep it in place and build a base. With warm temperatures today and colder temps forecasted tomorrow I think the skiing might be a little icy tomorrow but with snow in the forecast Monday, we might see some good skiing next week, let's hope. Jason Shelby and I went up the summer Lion's Head Trail as the winter trail is not yet opened. The snow fields near tree line have not filled in yet so the falling/avalanche hazard has not reached a point were it is necessary to use the winter route. That area had filled in quite a bit since I had been there last and if we get a decent storm Monday and the winds are right, we might see the winter route in use. Realistically though, it may require another storm after Monday's to fill in the area to a point where the hazard requires the opening of the winter route. Lion's Head was our high point for this ascent. With the wind and fog we didn't get any views so I don't know how Tuckerman Ravine is looking but I am assuming that it is filling in. It looks like the Tuckerman ice season is finally coming to a close and with any luck we'll get some skiing in that ravine soon. I know even less about Huntington but I suspect it is starting to fill in and I wouldn't be surprised if the USFS starts to use the 5 scale avalanche forecasting after Monday. I really do hope for a large storm on Monday. I'd really like to get on my skis soon!!
Thursday Jan 11, 2007
I went to Crawford Notch today to climb Willey's with Jason and Shelby. On the drive up I was happy to see some ice at Frankenstein. The climbing in Crawford is still very limited but at least there was some ice to be seen. Once again the Amphitheater at Frankenstein had a little ice but there was nothing there that looked climbable, let alone in. However, Standard looked climbable and may be in soon if we don't get another warm spell. Like the Amphitheater, Mount Willard had ice on it but nothing looked very good. There might be a possibility that someone could get up Cinema Gully but it was really looking thin. Willey's however, was more than climbable and if you are careful to stay on the thickest parts, I would say it is in. When I climbed it today, another party was paralleling us so it is wide enough to handle a couple of parties. When you look at the 10 day forecast for North Conway it looks like we might get a few degrees above freezing for high temperatures the next two days, then it stays below freezing for the rest of the forecast period. The low temps however, are all below freezing. If this forecast holds true, we may see some good buildup. It's hard to believe that we are nearly in the middle of January and coming up on MLK weekend and we are still in early season ice mode. For those of you who are interested in an ice forecast for the weekend this is how I see it. The climbing will be limited in Crawford Notch this weekend with the usual suspects climbable like Standard and Willey's. Late in the weekend like Sunday and Monday, we might see some ascents of other things but they will be in thin, difficult conditions. The ravines will have things to climb but, we need to watch any new precipitation causing an avalanche hazard. With snow showers predicted for the three days of MLK weekend and with limited ice down low, there is a potential for people to push it a bit in avalanche terrain when in a normal year they would head down low. It's been hard to get any ice climbing in this year and MLK weekend is a classic ice climbing weekend. Don't let the scarcity of the ice cloud your judgment about the hazards in avalanche terrain. Personally, I hope the snow showers are mild and do not load the ravines too rapidly and you get to have a good weekend of climbing. Check the avalanche report and keep patient. Ice will come, eventually!!!
Monday Jan 8, 2007 Well things have changed quite a bit since the last time I posted. My plan last Friday was to go to Cannon and climb the Dike with Scott. I canceled the climb on Friday morning because of the forecasted warm temperatures and rain. The Black Dike can be a very scary place when it gets warm particularly when it happens fast as it does when it rains. Rock fall is common as things melt on that cliff and it is even more likely in the area of the Dike. Over the weekend I was teaching an avalanche course and they are more challenging to teach when we have a low snow year. There is always the possibility that there is either an uninteresting or shallow snowpack during the season in any given year. It is always nice to have an interesting, robust snowpack, but it is not necessary. Our avalanche courses focus on decision making which does not rely on just snow pit data. A true evaluation of the avalanche risk takes into consideration: terrain, weather, avalanche activity, and snowpack. On top of that, most of the data you need to collect from a snowpack is not acquired from a pit, but is based on observations one can make while traveling. Saturday was a very warm day. It was unsettling to feel such warm air high on Mount Washington. Sunday was colder and the little I saw of Tucks, it seems that the climbing will be good there so long as it is cold. I do not know what happened in Huntington but I think it will be back to where it was pretty quickly. Today we received almost 5 inches of snow before the rain started and settled it out to about an inch or two. It seems that we will be in a colder pattern for a while so let's hope the ice comes in fast and fat and we can begin to normalize this winter a bit.
Thursday Jan 4, 2007
Scott and I went to Frankenstein today. The conditions at Frankenstein are getting a little better but we did lose some ice today in the warmth. The ice didn't take a huge hit but the climbing is still limited. Standard, Walk in the Forest, and Lost in the Forest are the best things to do right now. Dracula has a lot of ice but if you look at the picture I took today, you will notice the middle pillar of the left hand variation has a gap in it that ups the ante quite a bit. The left hand variation looks like it has a pretty thin start and the upper section is not as fat as one would like to lead. With a little more ice though, Dracula will be in and it is likely the next climb to come in at Frankenstein. The amphitheater hasn't changed much. The little ice that is there was not helped by the warmth today but it was still there when I left so let's hope for more cold to build on what is there. Despite the fact that there is limited ice, Scott and I had a good day of ice climbing. I wanted to work with Scott on his leading skills. We did some clinicing this morning and then Scott led all of Standard in three pitches. The ice was nice and soft and with the warm air temps so it was a nice comfortable climb. On our descent, we crossed over the top of Dracula. I figured Scott would enjoy that climb so I lowered him down and he climbed the left side variation. There was no question that the gap in the middle pillar was difficult but he got through that section pretty well and was able to finish the upper section smoothly.
On another note Jay Philbrick went up to Tucks today to check out conditions and plan for the Level 1 Avalanche Course he is teaching this weekend. Here is his report and his pictures of the ravine are below. The Tuckerman Ravine Trail is in much better shape for hiking than last weekend. It is no longer in its early season, icy, rocky, nightmare condition. But rain is in the forecast leading into this weekend so we'll see if it ices up again. Forget about skiing. We need a lot more snow. Left Gully and The Chute have enough snow for some turns but nothing else is even close. The Little Headwall is still open and only the very top of the Sherburne has enough snow to even consider. It's just not worth it yet. There is still a lot of ice showing on the Headwall, enough for climbing. Left of Left is fat. Keep an eye on how warm it gets over the next couple of days and how much rain we get.
Wednesday Jan 3, 2007
I went up to Huntingon Ravine today with Scott and Gillian. The goal was to climb Pinnacle. The day was sunny with mild temperatures but the observations said it was pretty windy up high. At Pinkham this morning the wind was calm. Once we got to the Harvard Cabin, there was a moderate wind but it was forecasted to diminish over the course of the day. When we got to the floor of the ravine, there were no foot prints heading up towards Pinnacle so it looked like we would have that climb to ourselves. As we climbed up the Fan, we noticed a party in Damnation and someone appeared to be soloing Central. Just below the start of the climb we geared up. Scott wanted to lead some of the pitches so he took the rack. My idea was to climb up above Scott while he led with Gillian belaying him. Scott started up the first pitch and looked strong and confident on the lead. Scott soon reached the top of the pitch and we brought Gillian up. Scott still felt strong so he led the rest of the climb in a couple more pitches. When we got to the end of the climb, the wind was diminishing and it was pretty light all the way across the Alpine Garden to Lion's Head. The conditions in Huntington remain good and the snow was much easier to climb after the freezing rain. It was great to have virtually no postholing. Today was a great day in the mountains and Scott and Gillian made a great team on their ascent of Pinnacle.
Tuesday Jan 2, 2007
Today was a typical day after a storm in the mountains, it was windy with snow showers but it wasn't as cold as it usually is after a storm. It is pretty clear that there is very little cold air north of us. It seems that the really cold air is locked up in the arctic. It was below freezing all day in Crawford Notch where I was climbing with Gillian but still mild for such a strong NW wind. The goal today was to get warmed up on some ice for a trip up to Huntington tomorrow. The plan was to climb some moderate ice on Willey's and steeper ice at Frankenstein. We headed up to Willey's first and started our climb. Willey's is in good shape and had gotten fatter since the last time I was there. I would call Willey's fully in with good climbing on good ice. Gillian hadn't climbed ice in awhile but she was able to quickly and efficiently make her way up the climb. After our ascent up Willey's we went to Frankenstein to do Standard. When we got to Standard there was a party topping out but no else on the climb. It was nice to have the climb to ourselves. We did the route in the classic three pitches and hiked down the gully to the north of the hanging gardens. The conditions at Frankenstein are looking up. There is significant ice in the amphitheater and there might even be something to climb there but nothing is in. It looked from the trestle that you could get up Pegasus Rock Finish but just barely. Lets just hope the weather doesn't get too warm and that the cold nights help the ice to keep building.
Monday Jan 1, 2007
Yesterday I got to spend the last day of 2006 in Huntinton Ravine with Scott. The goal was to climb one of the south facing gullies seeing how sunny the day was predicted to be. It's always nice to ice climb in the sun given how rare that is on the predominately east and north facing climbs in Northern New Hampshire. With the new snow that fell, the windy conditions, and reported small slides of the day before (Saturday Dec. 30) I wanted to choose a gulley nobody was in. There were a number of parties in the Ravine. I watched as groups were approaching and saw one group on Yale, another on North, but it appeared that Damnation was wide open. Not much had changed as far as ice conditions were concerned since I was there two days before. What did surprise me was how much new snow was in the ravine and how difficult the postholing was through the fan and in Damnation gulley itself. With snow and freezing rain falling today in the mountains I am sure things will be different this week but it's hard to know if things will get easier or more difficult. All I can say is leave yourself enough time for a difficult approach and hope it gets better. I know if the snow yesterday had a breakable crust it would have made things more difficult.
Once we got to the ice in Damnation, things got more fun. There was still a fair amount of plowing through the snow between the bulges but the ice was soft and friendly in bright sun. From the top of the steepest bulge in Damnation, I like to traverse left towards Yale to the Damnation Buttress. The buttress is a fun climb up a groove with great hummock climbing mixed with a rock move here and there. It's a little difficult to protect especially when there is new snow covering up the cracks but I prefer it to the upper steep snow slopes in the main gulley. To get to the buttress, I do a rising traverse from the steep bulge that is a little more than halfway up Damnation to a grove in the rock buttress about 150 feet from the gulley. After climbing up the buttress, we topped out and hiked across the Alpine Garden to the Lion's Head Trail and down to Pinkham. By the way, the USFS has not opened the Winter Lion's Head Trail yet so plan on using the summer trail till we get a bit more snow. This report is the first one of the new year and I'd like to say I hope you have a fun, interesting, and safe climbing year!
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